Whether you want a slow pace of life or to surf off white-sand beaches, find your perfect remote getaway in the Indian Ocean.
In Zanzibar’s historical capital city, the Stone Town neighbourhood remains a beguiling and bewildering African-Arabian hybrid, with the local meet-up point of Jaws Corner and former sultans’ palaces in the labyrinthine lanes. Locals still chirrup “pole, pole” because that’s how life moves. Zanzibar is in a sweet spot where resort-level comforts can be found, but they haven’t come at the expense of its charms.
The interior of the island remains as leafy and fertile as a set from Jurassic Park; Pemba’s Arabic name, El Huthera, means ‘The Green’. Vervet monkeys swing and flying foxes the size of seagulls flit in the Ngezi Forest Reserve. The air carries a heady aroma of cloves, Pemba’s sole cash crop. In tin-roof villages where women in brightly coloured kangas chat and fruit comes in ox carts, travellers are still a novelty.
At least two flights, one layover and a couple of hours on a bumpy ferry make some first-timers question their sanity for booking Havelock. Then they step ashore. The most developed of the islands in this far-flung Indian archipelago of 500-plus isles, closer to Thailand than mainland India, Havelock is effortlessly beautiful: mile upon mile of wild beach ; barefoot luxury in hotels set within lush jungle; great diving and kayaking through mangrove forests. So far, so Seychelles.
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