Papa's recipe traveled over generations from Greece to Egypt and back again. It will never mean the same thing to the people who randomly find it online, but it will still be delicious.
My father gave me strict instructions: Your single-minded goal must be to coddle the paper-thin, nearly transparent phyllo dough. You need an ample supply of melted butter and some clean, damp kitchen towels stashed right next to you, to use as blankets for the temperamental phyllo. Have your filling already prepared and make sure that you've wrungthe water out of the spinach with yet another towel, or two, or three. Work as quickly as you can, but have no fear.
We would cut the sheet into three long strips, and brush each ribbon of phyllo dough with melted butter before depositing a bit of filling in one lower corner of the dough. Then we would fold the pie up and over itself again and again in tightly wound triangles, like how soldiers ceremonially fold a flag.
Right after their wedding, they parted ways for months; she returned to the U.S. without him. During their courtship by postal mail, a military dictatorship had seized power in Greece, and he couldn't leave the country without permission — again finding himself at the mercy of larger political currents in a country he thought he could safely claim as his own.
After Papa's death, I had very little to remember him by, but I had some of his recipes in my memory and in my fingers. Years later, when I got married, I gave our spanakopita recipe to the caterers so it could be served as part of our wedding meal. It was one of several reminders of my father that I stitched into the day, in an almost secret language of familial love.
Who knows what happened. Maybe someone gave or sold it to the magazine, or maybe someone on the caterers' team also worked there. Maybe someone made it for a friend or for a party, and the recipe wound its way to someone else, in the way that beloved recipes do. I'll never know.
Norge Siste Nytt, Norge Overskrifter
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