Mariscos meet the broader flavors of Los Angeles at Loreto, the new Frogtown restaurant from the group behind splashy Cha Cha Chá
Beneath the din at Loreto is a calm fostered by the dining room’s palette of sandy browns and pale blues. The desert earth tones set the vibe straightaway. Its building, in a former warehouse in the Elysian Valley neighborhood that locals call Frogtown, is the color of red clay. The effect deepens as the sun sets. With no other tall structures nearby, the sky above the restaurant looks deceptively vast. One might believe there is nothing else around for miles.
Marin was born in San Diego and grew up in Mexico City, taking frequent return trips to Southern California to visit family. Late last decade, he moved to Los Angeles to establish the U.S. location of the group’s Terraza Cha Cha Chá, a rooftop bar in the capital city’s Tabacalera neighborhood with a perfectly framed view of the domed Monumento a la Revolución.
A bartender pours a cocktail from behind the counter of Loreto’s front-and-center bar. The restaurant serves outdoor lunch but the dining room is only open for dinner. Marin sees in Los Angeles the presence of traditions that represent the geographic extremes of Mexico, but also a seat of innovations. “You have cooking that so clearly reflects the many communities. But Mexican chefs are exposed to so many cultures here that they can also push boundaries, and both approaches are valuable. So we decided at Loreto: Let’s be playful and spicy and acidic, and throw in some Japanese influence and some Thai influence.
Lobster fills Loreto’s take on torta ahogada, which is then drenched in a sauce inspired by lobster bisque.
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