In Zoë Kanan’s hands, cottage cheese becomes the base for a loaf cake studded with minced lemon.
These recent reappraisals had me considering cottage cheese again, this time as an ingredient more than as a stand-alone dish. Was I on the brink of reentering a cottage cheese appreciation phase? Many of these newer recipes advertise cottage cheese as a lighter alternative to rich dairy products like sour cream or ricotta. But I wanted to create something that celebrates cottage cheese for its natural deliciousness, funky curds and all.
A few baking references came to mind, like the farmer’s cheese pie at Brooklyn’s Four & Twenty Blackbirds, a quiche derivative made with the finer-curd farmer’s cheese, honey, and a sprinkle of thyme. The celebrated ricotta biscuits in Nicole Rucker’s fruit-centric baking book,, also use fresh cheese to enrich a batter or dough, which is a wonderful back-pocket trick for bakers. The cheese melds with the crumb in a nearly undetectable way, lending moisture, richness, and depth all at once.
I chose to go with a simple baked loaf cake made with the addition of a full cup of cottage cheese and half a minced lemon. Introducing the full force of citrus balances out the cake’s milky base with complementary bitterness and acidity. As the cake bakes, the lemon pieces turn pleasantly chewy, providing a nice textural contrast to the tender crumb.
I find this cake to be even better after it sits for a day, when the moisture has settled in and the lemon has had some time to release its perfume. I top it with a sour lemon glaze for an extra hit of acidity, but a heavy sprinkle of sugar followed by a drizzle of lemon juice before baking would make a simple and tasty alternative. My mom isn’t big on baking, but I think she would be tempted by the winning combination of cottage cheese and cake.
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