Bilbao and San Sebastián get lots of culinary love, but wedged in between is Getaria, Basque Country’s under-appreciated wonderland of grilled seafood
Everyone goes to Basque Country to eat. The autonomous region in northern Spain and self-proclaimed “culinary nation” is well-known for pintxos in Bilbao’s Casco Viejo and the temples of Basque food in charming San Sebastián, the city with the highest concentration of Michelin stars in the world.
Though the fishing village has fewer than 3,000 inhabitants, it welcomes in-the-know visitors each year searching for turbot, monkfish, sardines, and lobsters, all grilled to perfection without any fanfare.Long before tourists discovered the city, Getarian fishermen were cooking fish on charcoal grills set up inside their boats. “On board, the grill was an essential tool.
Some restaurants have moved the grilling inside to their kitchens, but the old parrillas are still visible, in some cases built right into exterior walls, an inseparable feature of Getaria’s culinary landscape. “Today, we can say that the parrilla, as we know it, is something purely ornamental. But it has a history behind it that we try to maintain,” Gereka adds.
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