Anne Saxelby was crucial to helping New Yorkers understand and appreciate America’s best cheese. As the food world mourns her death, chrisecrowley celebrates her outsize impact
Photo: Jeenah Moon/The New York Times/Redux For those of us easily seduced by words like “washed rind,” cheese in the United States conjures up very different ideas than it may have 20 or 30 years ago. You can now dream about the eccentric creations of Lazy Lady, or Jasper Hill Farm’s Bayley Hazen Blue, or delicate little rounds of Nettle Meadow Farm’s Kunik, which the cheese authority Anne Saxelby once called “the sexiest cheese in America.
It was with tremendous sadness that many in the food world learned yesterday that Saxelby had passed away over the weekend, and reportedly had an existing heart condition. She was 40, and is survived by, among others, her husband Patrick Martins , and their three young children. It was easy to get excited because, at the stall, Saxelby was a consistently warm presence. Her genial and welcoming attitude made the confusing and vast world of cheese approachable for someone like me, who didn’t know my Roquefort from my robiola.
While the Essex Street Market stall was only 100 square feet, her outsize impact cannot be overstated. As Edible Manhattan wrote in a 2012 profile, Saxelby herself operated as a “talent agent for the best local cheesemakers,” and the magazine declared that she had “helped redefine” American cheese. Speaking to the magazine, the chef Daniel Boulud called her “the most sophisticated boutique fromagère — or cheesemonger — in the U.S.
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