The Antonio Marras spring 2023 collection is here. See every look:
A new chapter is beginning for Antonio Marras, whose company recently entered into a partnership with Italian manufacturing group Calzedonia. It will give an obvious boost to Marras’s financial resources, triggering a consequent retail rollout and allowing more creative range and flexibility for the designer. Backstage before the show he was clearly delighted at the prospect.
Restraint is a concept not in the least associated with Marras’s aesthetic, yet the collection felt less inflected with his usual pyrotechnics. That said, true to his often dramatic vision, this season he dedicated the collection to his love of opera, and to its diva par excellence Maria Callas, who was paid an emphatic homage at the end of the show with a few hyperbolic concoctions, custom made by a theatrical tailor.
That was the high-drama note of an otherwise rather focused and rhythmic collection, which comprised both a men’s and women’s offer. There were still plenty of elaborate patchworked hybrids, like a masculine pinstriped blazer appliqué with golden macramé, cut in half and attached to a floral circle skirt, or a sporty varsity jacket in luscious satin heavily incrusted along the sleeves with an inflorescence of lace blooms.
A sleek black satin skirt suit looked particularly attractive—the jacket tight-fitting, the midi pencil skirt hip-hugging, the open back revealing an intriguing lace-up play. Marras also embraced the ubiquitous silhouette of the season, the figure-hugging midi skirt with matching midriff-baring brassiere; bodysuits, bralettes and corsets were also abundantly represented throughout.
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