Review | Arlington’s King of Koshary serves Egyptian food fit for royalty
They would then ask others in the department to pick their favorite. Sometimes Metry’s version won, sometimes Gomaa’s. Yet it was an unusual competition in the sense that, while Metry or Gomaa might claim victory on a particular day, the true winners wouldn’t reveal themselves until months later, in 2019, when the Egyptian natives combined their talents to open the King of Koshary in Arlington.
One evening, I invited a friend to enter this kingdom in Northern Virginia. To the best of his recollection, he had never tried koshary before, and I could almosthis disappointment when the bowl of dry ingredients — a kaleidoscope in shades of brown — was plopped on the table. I suspect this is not an uncommon reaction for first-timers. Unadorned, the dish looks as if someone randomly pulled ingredients from the bulk bins at Whole Foods.
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