At Paris Fashion Week, Different Takes on Glamour

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At Paris Fashion Week, Different Takes on Glamour
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Read CathyHoryn's latest ParisFashionWeek review: 'I love when a designer has the fearlessness to make a big shift, who refuses to let himself to be defined by a brand or the industry. But, also, Rousteing consistently injected a sense of humor and joy'

Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Yannis Vlamos /Courtesy of Paco Rabanne, Courtesy of The Row, Courtesy of BalmainPhoto-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Yannis Vlamos /Courtesy of Paco Rabanne, Courtesy of The Row, Courtesy of BalmainPhoto-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Yannis Vlamos /Courtesy of Paco Rabanne, Courtesy of The Row, Courtesy of Balmain

In a lot of ways, they are like the Dutch of the 17th century, the so-called Golden Age, when Vermeer was making his portraits of domestic life in his native Delft. At the time, the court of Louis XIV of France was the showiest in Europe. It was learning how to become the fashion leader. But the Dutch, while rich and successful in their own right — from shipbuilding, international trade — refused to make a display of it.

In general, there’s been a stripping away of material effects. We saw it at Prada with those stark black dresses and trim wool pants and pullovers; at Dior, which was a reduced version of the house’s historical Tulip Line and full-skirted romance, drawn from life in Paris in the austere ’50s.

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