.plattypants writes on Patti Ann’s, Greg Baxtrom’s wacky, somewhat stilted homage to his down-home midwestern childhood
Chicken-fried pork chop and mashed potatoes with chive butter. Photo: Jutharat Pinyodoonyachet With every new spike in infections, it’s clear the COVID era will be with us a little while longer, but you can already tell that chefs and restaurateurs have formed strong opinions about what their customers seem to want after subsisting on pantry recipes and packets of ramen in their darkened apartments.
“I can’t tell whether this is supposed to be satire or not,” someone said as we announced our drink choices to the server, who was dressed, as if for a ye olde midwestern cookout, in a neatly tied waist apron and blue denim shirt. Baxtrom is a topflight classically trained chef, however, and as dinner progressed, it quickly became clear that his idea of “home cooking” is a little different from that of your average mom in the wilds of suburban Chicago.
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