At Selva in Long Beach, feast on Colombian hot dogs and the mighty bandeja paisa

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At Selva in Long Beach, feast on Colombian hot dogs and the mighty bandeja paisa
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Carlos Jurado's smoky, meaty Colombian cooking gives Long Beach its next great dining destination with Selva.

Brilliant small plates and wild cocktails mark the return of Lien Ta and Jonathan Whitener’s HLAY in KoreatownJurado had occasionally held elaborate pop-up tasting-menu dinners, often centered on smoked meats. Hideaway’s 85-seat space, divided into a sedate dining room and a bar area with a view into the kitchen, felt like a place of possibility.

The early menu is beautifully streamlined: 10 starters, a handful of entrees, some compelling sides and a few desserts. Before taking your order, servers likely will mention “steak” as a special, with a long list of accompaniments. Quiz them a little, and you’ll learn they’re talking about bandeja paisa, the one-platter feast synonymous with Colombia. If you are an omnivore, this should be the focal point of your meal.

Homemade hot sauce and the wonderfully coarse ají verde brighten everything they touch; use them liberally.Build the rest of your meal around this hearty tour de force. A mellow ceviche of fish bathed in blood orange leche de tigre tinted with aji amarillo paste is the lightest starter option. It’s hard to resist the fluffy, soy-laced Peruvian-style arroz chaufa; Jurado wisely portions the fried rice as an appetizer so it isn’t too filling.

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