Velvet-smooth and crowned with a luscious mound of aromatic shaved beef or lamb, the hummus as Baba’s Pantry is perhaps the best we’ve ever had.
A tasting menu spot goes deep with five courses of seriously delicious Mexican history.At República,
a buzzy restaurant in Portland’s Pearl District, every ingredient is treated like a precious living artifact. Crispy chicatana ants are blitzed into creamy moles and aiolis. The distilled spirit raicilla, made from roasted agave fermented in a traditional Jaliscan rock pit, is moussified with pineapple into an elegant dessert. Behind these dishes is not just one chef but a whole team, each with their own area of expertise.
The memelita is one of the oldest dishes of the Americas. “Everything on this plate is ancestral,” explains co-owner Angel Medina, “with the exception of the cheese and olive oil—we add those as a way to bring the Old World and New World together.”Executive chef Lauro Romero explains that the Sinaloan technique of aguachile was originally used to tenderize meat. By the late 19th century, Japanese immigration led to increased fish trade and a pivot to seafood.
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