The Bach Mai spring 2023 menswear collection is here. See every look:
Fern Mallis once joked that she wanted to do a book about grandmothers because designers cite their nanas as inspiration more than any other relative—a fact I can verify. That’s not the case for Bach Mai, however; his spring show was inspired by his father, whose hard work at an oil refinery in Texas made a career in fashion possible for his son. “I thought a lot about his sacrifice and how he wore blues to work everyday.
Mai has made no secret of his admiration of Cristóbal Balenciaga, whose asymmetric dresses inform Mai’s best-selling full-skirted styles . But for spring, Mai found inspiration in the trapeze line Yves Saint Laurent introduced at Christian Dior in 1958. This season, the designer said, was “all about shape.”
Bias-cutting, especially for ’90s nostalgic slip dresses, has been popular this week; in line with his idea of creating airier shapes, Mai used bias for a different purpose, creating slip shapes that draped, rather than clung. To these he added a dramatic sheer insert to reveal the leg, which was a felicitous, graphic touch with a bit of sizzle. Overall, his use of sheer and floaty fabrics was better balanced than in the past.
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