The Sichuan hot pot demand in L.A. (and other Western megalopolises) has taken on a sense of Manifest Destiny.
The San Gabriel Valley is in the midst of a sea change, and the ever-growing presence of Sichuan- and Chongqing-style hot pot restaurants populating the region is the clearest sign.
The main attraction of the night is a slice of home, or three. In parlance, it is called butter: slabs of solid-state beef tallow, dyed safety orange from an infusion of hot and numbing spices meant to warm the body while simultaneously lifting it off this plane of existence. The sheer magnitude of China’s potential for consumption can be difficult to grasp. Forecasts at the beginning of 2019 saw China overtaking the U.S. as the world’s largest consumer market, and there is little reason to believe it hasn’t. China’s surging middle class, which has expanded by hundreds of millions since the turn of the century, has exponentially increased its spending power.
Like Korean barbecue, which also has had its day at the vanguard of L.A. food trends, hot pot is an experience best shared among friends or family. Everyone plays a role in shaping the meal: The soup matures over time, its flavor fortified with every morsel that plunges into its waters. The community-building that happens around a hot pot table is unique. Chasing meat sweats at a Korean restaurant is one thing; bonding over the searing pain of the myriad spices is another.
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