Beloved yet banned: The surprising history of tie-dye

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Beloved yet banned: The surprising history of tie-dye
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The ancient art form has existed for thousands of years. In that time it’s been outlawed, used in religious ceremonies, and celebrated as a symbol of love

Tie-dyed clothing might not seem like millennia-old artistic craft. Known in North America as a symbol of the 1960s hippie movement, it makes for an easy DIY project with materials available at the dollar store.

Lee Talbot, curator at the George Washington University Museum and the Textile Museum, says that’s evidenced by the “perfection” in earliest surviving samples we’ve found—“We're not seeing a long period of experimentation… they've been doing it for a really long time.” Some of the oldest depictions of bandhani were preserved in written records and paintings in the Ajanta caves in Central India. In Northern India, the textiles were mentioned in songs and poetry as symbols of love and affection.

In murals and other visual records that remain, Webster says deities and religious figures are often depicted wearing amarra. Peasants used indigo to make shibori designs on hemp clothing, according to Talbot. Shibori kimonos made of silk were expensive to purchase and were largely worn only by the upper class.

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