So what should be done?
When Karl Lagerfeld staged a runway presentation around a Chanel-branded rocket ship — complete with moving liftoff effect — in the spring of 2017, it inspired a flurry of awe-filled Instagram posts and reviews from attendees. Almost none of the coverage touched on the environmental footprint of constructing a building-sized prop for the sake of a show that would last 20 minutes.
But to some activists, there's a tension inherent in this idea of creating a sustainability event that people fly from all over the world to attend. By the estimation of Climaider , the international flights booked by the event's attendees are by far the biggest source of carbon emissions connected to the gathering.
Dr. Arvind Ravikumar, an Assistant Professor of Energy Engineering at Harrisburg University who studies environmental and energy policy, says that whether an event's sustainability aims justify the flights it involves is up to every individual and organization to decide for themselves.
Another element to keep in mind is the set design. If a brand does decide to incorporate elaborate pieces into the show, they can make sure the raw materials end up with an organization that can re-use them, which is crucial to building a circular economy that extends beyond clothing. In Paris, La Réserve des Arts picks up used set pieces that are then offered to its members — often local art and design students — to incorporate into their own creations.
Materials for the Arts is also willing to work with brands on the front end of show production. Taub mentions that Bureau Betak, the production company famous for such highly-Instagrammable runways as the Jacquemus lavender field in Provence, approached the organization as it looked for recycled materials to use in Gabriela Hearst's Fall 2020 show.
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