Love your wok.
, or energy," Young told me. It was a cloudy afternoon in her New York apartment, and I was digging through her extensive wok collection. "It’s the breath of a wok, it’s the taste of a wok. Some people describe it as that seared, concentrated aroma. It’s the elusive smoky flavor that’s almost like food coming right off of the grill.”As Young cooked us a minimalist lunch of snap peas and bok choy, I told her all about my wok-off. In turn, she told me everything I did was wrong.
“What about reducing sauces?" I asked. It was second or third time I raised the question, because though I was softening to woks, I was still wary of their ability to reduce a sauce into the rich flavors I was familiar with. "Aren't skillets better for that?" My wok heated up. I watched peanut oil swirl around the bottom with the consistency of water. I dropped my ingredients into the wok, and each time, they sizzled. Using Grace's technique, I flipped and threw the mushrooms and chicken into the air—and it actually landed back into the wok. This was how stir-frying was supposed to feel. I could call it wokAnna, on the other hand, was struggling.
Is it terrible to admit that I liked the skillet version better? That it lit up the same receptors in my brain that crave cheap Chinese take-out?Chinese cooking in America has always been complicated because our tastes are hereditary. Exclusionary immigration laws kept a lot of Chinese cooks out of the country until the 1950s and ‘60s; by then, most American palates were set on what Chinese flavors should taste like. Half a century later, they haven’t budged much. Americans love their sauces.
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