One of London's most promising chefs brings her Ghanaian kitchen to New York.
Even the Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen pop-ups she hosted in her London apartment helped boost awareness of regional African cooking.
“I think I contributed to that conversation for sure, and I’m proud of that contribution, but there’s so much more that can be done,” she said. It's still difficult to separate the U.K. from its long history of colonialism, which stamps out the culture of the oppressed to cement the colonizer's cultural supremacy. Ghana, a former colony of Great Britain, has its own culinary footprint with unique source material worthy of exploration and appreciation, Adjonyoh says.
“There are African chefs working to do what they love, but it doesn’t get the same sort of love or appreciation as the new burger spot opening," she said; it's especially frustrating given that British food media will only “spotlight one African chef at a time." “I got to a point where I was like, ‘The only way this can grow is if there’s more voices and there’s more than one voice at a time,’” she said.So Adjonyoh is working to create throughlines from Ghana to London to the United States and embed herself in a global community of African chefs. But she’s quick to point out that while the menu is inspired by Ghana, she’s not speaking for all Ghanaians, only from her perspective.
There's a lot to be done. Looking at the foot traffic moving along Columbus Avenue, she looked determined. “It’s about representation of Black people," she said. "Full stop.”
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