Cookie Science: The Real Differences Between Brown and White Sugars

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Cookie Science: The Real Differences Between Brown and White Sugars
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How does each sugar impact the final cookie?

When you consider all the things sugar does for a cookie, fixating on sweetness is like remembering Albert Einstein as that guy with the crazy hair. Both features are endearing to the masses, perhaps, but irrelevant compared to the subjects' true importance.

Light brown sugar, more versatile than dark brown sugar, is roughly 95% sucrose. Its sweetness is tempered by the addition of bitter molasses, which contributes fructose, glucose, amino acids, and minerals, too. Those chemical agents can smoke and burn during caramelization, but also undergo the Maillard reaction, developing increasingly rich and complex flavors.

Brown and white sugars have unique strengths and weaknesses that can be leveraged to achieve any texture, so it's not a question of what they do for a cookie, but, the primary role of acidic brown sugar is to react with sodium bicarbonate and produce carbon dioxide, making cookies thick, puffy, and soft . Neutral white sugar can't participate in that reaction, so cookies are comparatively thin, dense, and crisp ., the primary role of sugar is to assist in mechanical leavening.

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