Chefs and homesick immigrants go to extreme lengths to smuggle ingredients into the U.S. from faraway countries
set on “evaluating the threat of agro-terrorism,” Connecticut Rep. Rob Simmons noted only 12 documented cases of non-state uses of biological agents since 1912, only two of which were “terrorist in nature.” No matter how remote the possibility of terrorism, the CBP has responded with renewed vigor, shifting focus from the “unintentional introduction of pests or diseases” to combating perceived nefarious threats intentionally hidden in agricultural items.
Foods aren’t just vehicles for nostalgia, either. They can keep traditions alive in a new country. I grew up in a Connecticut house filled with traditional Mangalorean and Goan foods, an upbringing that took much more work than I ever considered as a kid. Many of the same flavors that my parents associated with home are also my tastes of home, even if I grew up thousands of miles away from their point of origin. The sense memories they’ve passed down to me are a form of cultural inheritance.
“I never made it through without the Customs people hauling me over,” says chef Anita Jaisinghani. “And I would just say okay, sometimes they’ll let me through. I’ll just take my chance. If they throw it away, they throw it away. At least I tried.” The chef now runs the popular Houston restaurant Pondicheri, but she began flying with food in the ’80s when she first moved from India to Edmonton, Canada.
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