The past and present of escabeche, from Persia to Spain to the Americas.
“The Romans were no strangers to preserving fish in vinegar and oil — Apicus gives a recipe for fried fish preserved in vinegar in. But escabeche probably came into Spain with the Muslims,” writes Maricel E. Presilla in “,” one of my favorite books. “The word comes from the Arabic iskedeg, which in turn is a popular form of the Persian word sikbaj.
It’s no surprise then that the escabeches of the Caribbean, Central and South America are largely based on this quartet of aromatics. From there, cooks in different regions pulled from locally available spices and seasonings, augmenting the pickling sauce with a variety of herbs, vegetables, fruits and chiles. In Puerto Rico,
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