The Gabriela Hearst-fueled turnaround at Chloé is gathering steam — while heating up the planet as little as possible thanks to fashion sustainability efforts.
At Chloé, she described an extensive retooling of the organization and rallying everyone to dedicate themselves to “the excitement of building something better.”
Meanwhile, Hearst touted Chloé’s overhaul of its denim supply chain as an example of an almost eerie complicity between her and Bellini. “From a business KPI perspective, we are on the right track,” he said. “We see a very positive dynamic on client acquisitions. We see a new flow of clients that we didn’t see before, including high-net-worth individuals, clients that are coming back to the brand, as well as new clients that are coming into the brand.”The company was able to log such quick progress by focusing on the “traditional volume pillars” of the brand.
“We are both quite passionate and quite convinced and stubborn on the vision and on the project,” Bellini said, confessing that he and Hearst have nicknamed each other “volcanoes,” reflecting their fiery personalities.For example, Bellini said he had identified sneakers as an opportunity for Chloé, which Hearst initially resisted given the ubiquity of traditional athletic shoes from designer brands and the traditionally damaging production processes around them.
To help boost both, the designer records long, detailed videos about each collection specifically for store managers and sales associates. Hearst acknowledged there was some initial culture shock stepping into a storied French maison, having grown up on a ranch in Uruguay — she is the only Latin woman to head a major French house, to her knowledge — and having cut her designer teeth in Manhattan’s Garment District.
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