From Daniel Lee's debut at Burberry to the Gen-Z skewing cast at Miu Miu, here, discover the most-viewed shows of the fall 2023 season
Fashion loves a debut. Even these days, when the designer musical chairs game never seems to end, a fresh start attracts attention. The Autumn/Winter 2023 season gave runway watchers three first-times. In Paris, Harris Reed and Ludovic de Saint Sernin presented their launch collections for Nina Ricci and Ann Demeulemeester, respectively, but it was Daniel Lee’s shot across the bow at Burberry that topped’s most-viewed shows.
Then again, the absence of a designer in the top spot can create a narrative of its own. In January, Gucci appointed Sabato De Sarno to fill the job left vacant when Alessandro Michele abruptly left the brand late last year. The fall collection was designed by an in-house team as it awaited his arrival, and although it lacked the stamp of the auteur that Michele’s collections had, it nonetheless landed at number five on our list.
Speaking of, a Gen-Z skewing cast that included model Zaya Wade and actors Emma Corrin and Mia Goth in an irreverent, mostly pantsless collection helped score Miu Miu its first-ever appearance on this list — so much for the return of tailoring every other designer seemed to be talking about! Miuccia Prada had a very good season; Miu Miu came in at number four, and Prada at three.
A year ago, Demna’s Balenciaga collection addressed the war in Ukraine, but after a pair of advertising scandals rocked the Kering-owned brand to its foundations, he recommitted himself to the act of making clothes, not spectacles.
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