When fresh tomatoes are at their peak, Greek salad is a must.
Food changes. It changes over time, and it changes from place to place. To resist that is to resist what has led to all the food we love. There was no Greek salad, as we know it today, before tomatoes made their way from the Americas to Europe in the 16th century. And Greek salad itself has changed as a result of its journey farther from home.
And sometimes, the answer is clear and strong. Why slabs of feta and not crumbles? Because feta has a salty intensity that has the potential to eventually make every bite a little too much. Because it's better to let the eater control how much feta to eat in each mouthful. Because it's a better study in contrasts: a nubbin of briny feta, then a refreshing palate cleanser of tomato, then a mix of all of them together—maybe a tender and sharp olive, followed by a cool and crisp cucumber.
I'm less opinionated on which feta you should use. Most Greeks would probably insist that it has to be Greek feta, but I've eaten enough good feta from other producing countries, like Bulgaria and France, to know there's plenty out there to go around: some creamier, some crumblier, some saltier, some milder. Buy whichever good-quality feta appeals the most to your taste, wherever it's from.
Onions are another area in which I break with tradition. Traditionally, they're incorporated raw. But I've always had a problem with raw onions in my food; I prefer to temper them one way or another. In testing this recipe, I tried a few ways: soaking them in ice water, soaking them in warm water, and giving them a. My preference was for the quick pickle, which tempers the onion's pungency just enough while working little bursts of acidity into each sliver.
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