The terrain of southwest Victoria is home to some of Australia’s best and most abundant produce
The only problem I have with eel these days is using a knife and fork — I want to use my hands,” says Jayden Lillyst. “It feels more natural.”
Tae Rak, also known as Lake Condah, was severely disrupted when European settlers installed drainage channels in the 1880s and 1950s, but recent restoration and conservation initiatives are returning it to its former glory. The Aquaculture Centre stands on the shore of Tae Rak, where families of black swans and downy grey cygnets paddle between swarms of mating dragonflies, while wedge-tailed eagles gracefully assess intruders from above.
Around an hour’s drive south east of Budj Bim, a short detour off the much-visited Great Ocean Road, is Tower Hill Wildlife Reserve, a lush landscape with a dormant volcano at its heart. Cliffs patterned with layers resembling vertical ripples flank one side of the road. On the other, the land slopes down to Tower Hill Lake, which practically surrounds the reserve, with just a narrow road offering access across the water.
Over in Koroit, a short drive from the nature reserve, Noodledoof Brewing & Distilling Co also works with Worn Gundidj to source native botanicals for its gin. Correa alba, a coastal shrub with white flowers, is picked from inside the volcanic crater, while mountain pepper and lemon myrtle are sourced from the Otway Ranges, 100 miles to the south east.
“Around the same time we started, Noma was blowing up and we found we could get a lot of the coastal herbs that they were using [in Copenhagen] around here,” says Ryan, the restaurant’s only chef. Basalt’s vineyards are dry-grown, without irrigation, as the soil here provides ample drainage and can also store water. The less liquid, the more concentrated the grapes, and the greater the acidity. The maritime climate also blows cold wind in from the Antarctic, but hints of saltiness come not from the ocean breeze but via the high concentration of nutrients such as magnesium, calcium and potassium in the fruit.
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