“Conventionally beautiful people have always confused me,” Alessandro Michele said. “The more you are a hybrid—young but old; male but female; female but male—the more you look interesting.” Read on about the Gucci designer, here.
Alessandro Michele Collage: Photographed by Venturelli/Getty Images for Gucci; Photographed by Ernesto S. Ruscio/Getty Images for Netflix; Photographed by Daniele Venturelli/Getty Images for Gucci and Maxxi; All other images Courtesy of Gucci.
At Michele’s request, Lanthimos had already done an unsettling series for him, which was turned into a limited-edition book. The pictures are of androgynous models in Gucci clothes interacting with fully nude geriatric men and women who are painted chalk white; shot in the gallery of an 18th-century Roman villa, they convey an overwhelming sense of mortality. A ghostlike woman looks under the skirt of a sleeping girl. An elderly naked man sits next to a young woman dressed in black.
Fashion has long been afraid to display any sense of age or, worse, decay. Perhaps even more radical than Michele’s embrace of gender fluidity is his strong belief that age shouldn’t be a factor when designing clothes. “You have to love things that are not so young!” he said. “Everyone will age—you can’t change that, and it’s a crazy thing to fight. I didn’t push women to dress like young girls, I did the reverse.
Back in Miami, Michele was hosting the big party with Snapchat to celebrate Gucci-designed glasses with built-in cameras that could record short films. The director, who also did a limited-edition book for Gucci, had directed a mini movie using the camera-glasses; it would premiere at the event. The glasses would be displayed, but they were not going to be produced for sale. “I wanted to do something just for one night,” Michele explained.
He laughed at this notion. Perhaps this was a way of assuaging anxieties about something Michele had told me earlier. “One day,” he had said, “I imagine myself not working in fashion. Ever since my first collection, I’m always thinking that I could be fired.” The idea of sudden termination actually seemed to motivate him. He shrugged. “It’s not a bad way to keep yourself excited about the job.
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