Gabriela Hearst and a clutch of other female designers have made craft-centered clothing into a statement of tender strength.
The power look of today’s woman is not a strong-shouldered suit or a voluminous gown.At yesterday’s Gabriela Hearst show, the Resistance Revival Choir, clad in white dresses, lined a runway in a big warehouse in the Brooklyn Navy Yard and burst into song. The warehouse doors flew open and out came the models in ribbed white dresses with delicate threading or long black column dresses with gold Greecian goddess breastplates.
You could put Ulla Johnson in this category, too, and even Maria Grazia Chiuri of Dior. The way the clothes are made is heavy with a celebration of the traditionally female act of making, and the clothes themselves, while softer than a traditional power look, take on that meaning too. A woman in a Hearst dress is not a shrinking violet fanning herself by the pool, but a kingpin who demands a strong type of comfort.
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