From birria and beyond, meet the writer, teacher, and researcher.
“The last time I ate this, I was nine years old,” the woman told Toledo. She had been at a wedding when Mexican revolutionaries swept through. “They took over the town, and there was a shootout. Late that night, they told us we had to leave, because the shooting would continue.”
When Toledo cooked the dish with the centenarian, she shed light on the nuances that research couldn’t capture. The woman’s 75-year-old daughter joined them, asking her mother why she had never made her the dessert before, or even mentioned it. The older woman shrugged, saying, “You never asked.” “I spent many years asking questions,” says Toledo. “Nobody could respond, because nobody knew.” She resolved to change that and to find the origins of Jalisco’s dishes, a job that began with cooking and culinary research and has since morphed to encompass writing and teaching about the food.
For the last two decades, she traveled the state, working with local elders and cooks. She researched and recorded how people cook, both now and dating back thousands of years, looking at pre-Hispanic cactus stews and how moles made with charred tortillas can be used to settle stomachs.In her field research, Toledo spoke with home cooks that carried on Jalisciense traditions, trying to find the meeting point of their techniques and older recipes.
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