How the nonalcoholic negroni, or the “nogroni,” became a bartender flex (via punch_drink)
—save for the ice and garnish—is composed entirely of alcoholic components, presenting a particular challenge when recreating its signature silky texture in a booze-free format. Adding to the challenge is the universally known nature of what a Negronitaste like. But according to Austin Hennelly, the bar director at Kato Restaurant in Los Angeles, this is exactly the appeal of the N/A Negroni.
At Storico Vino in Atlanta, beverage director Jose Pereiro keeps the Venetian-inspired wine bar’s N/A Negroni to a classic equal-parts recipe: Pentire Drift , Wilfred’s Aperitif and Lyre’s Aperitif Rosso . To compensate for the absent familiar heat of alcohol, Pereiro dials up the bitter citrus notes by way of extra expressions of orange peel over the finished drink.
For Kristian Fidrych, beverage manager of Ember & Ash in Philadelphia, the familiarity of the classic Negroni is key to his rationale in creating a spirit-free version for the bar’s “Non-Booze Jawns” menu. “Each of the three ingredients have clear flavor profiles that bartenders understand well, and this allows you a lot of creative freedom in recreating the spirits,” he says.
It’s a sentiment shared by Nicolas Torres, a partner and bar director at True Laurel in San Francisco, though he admits it will only get you so far. “The nonalcoholic Negroni is sort of the holy grail. The weight, bittersweet character and aromatics of a Negroni are associated with a true boozy drink—nothing [else] tastes like it,” he says. To compensate for the missing aromatic depth and weight from alcohol and sugar, Torres, like Pereiro, advises to go heavy on the bitter element.
It is perhaps this forthrightness about the Negroni’s inherently irreplicable nature that has made the St. Agrestis ready-to-drink, a bottled nonalcoholic take on the aperitivo icon, such a rapid success. Launched in January of this year, the drink can already be found in over 200 New York–area bars and restaurants, including Amor y Amargo, Roberta’s and Death & Co., and has been purchased by consumers in all 48 contiguous states, according to owner Louie Catizone.
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