In Sweden, every Saturday is effectively a national holiday, called lördagsgodis, which means “Saturday candy.”
At New York’s newest Swedish candy store, Bon Bon, on the Lower East Side—there’s another one, in the West Village, called Sockerbit, which means “sugar lump”—one of the scoop-your-own bins contains a confection labelled Socialcandy. Socialcandy are slightly sticky gummies, in opaque pastel shades ranging from yellow to pink to seafoam green, with vaguely tropical flavors , and different shapes, most of which take the form of a word, acronym, or symbol of the Internet age.
Make no mistake—my parents didn’t raise me this way. In fact, as a child, my access to sweets was so limited that I made my Halloween hauls last for months. But ultimately, the restriction seems to have backfired. As an adult, when I am supposed to seek only the refined and bitter pleasures of eighty-five-per-cent dark chocolate, I have regressed, craving only the milkiest of milk.
Nordic countries, in general, are crazy for candy. On a trip to Iceland a few years ago, I was amazed by the wide selection of sweets sold by the pound at even the most average-looking gas stations. But if any one particular country knows its candy, it’s Sweden, whose residents, according to a study by the Swedish Board of Agriculture, eat more per year per capita—more than thirty pounds per person each—than the citizens of any other nation.
And so it became a crucial, and deeply beloved aspect of Swedish culture—and not just for children. A friend of a friend named Danielle, who is married to a Swedish man, marvelled that her “thin, thirtysomething” sister-in-law’s nightly routine, at her home in Copenhagen, involves sneaking to the store on the ground floor of her apartment building after she’s put her kids to bed, gathering a large bag of pick-and-mix candy, then plopping in front of the TV to eat it.
It’s springtime in New York, but the winter was a long one, and certainly depressing, if not particularly for lack of sunlight. At Bon Bon, one recent afternoon, I was greeted with joy by one of the three Swedish owners, Robert Persson, who wore a pair of John Lennon-esque eyeglasses and had his shoulder-length red hair pulled into a low bun.
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