I Spent a Day Watching Your Steak Die

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I Spent a Day Watching Your Steak Die
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To truly eat meat ethically, this community of small-production ranchers and butchers believes you have to observe every step of the process: birth, life, and death, from the pastures to the butcher shop.

memes about. “These heifers are robbing me blind,” one rancher captions a post about the cost of cattle.

Stovall and Barnes move with balletic efficiency, first with guns, then with blades. A few moments after firing the two fateful shots, they advance on Baby and Snowday with plastic-sheathed knives glinting under the weak sun. They man up to each cow, cleanly slitting their throats in single rips. The cows flail wildly in the mud as the electro-pulse-charge neuronic pathways in their bovine brains slowly fire out, very much dead but not yet at rest. The bodies kick and piss and gasp.

I’m standing there, thumbing notes into my damp phone, the text jumping all over on me, trying to keep my shit together as Hinnen starts hauling Baby’s skin over to the back of her pickup truck. It’s a heavy job and something in me is compelled to help. I bend over and assist her in dragging the hide. There’s blood on my hands, city parka, and shoes as we carry Snowday’s beautiful brown-and-cream skin.

“The meat on older animals is the most incredibly dark shade of red and will be capped with yellow fat full of carotene from a life spent grazing fresh grass,” Kevin Smith says. He’s a James Beard Award–nominated chef and butcher who operates, a butcher shop in Seattle that sells exclusively small-production meat from local family farms, often with a focus on retired dairy cows.

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