'I met basket makers, mule packers, wild mushroom pickers, backyard textile weavers, and axmen who specialize in hewing beehives from hollowed-out trees'
Yet in the scarps and valleys of western Yunnan Province, bordering Myanmar and Tibet, a startlingly different Middle Kingdom abides: a stronghold of manual, artisanal trades. A cosmos of makeshift villages and crooked roads.
Shen isn’t exaggerating. His fertilizer is a homemade concoction of pine needles and pig waste. A hand-carved wooden stick functions as a corn de-grainer. Hand-woven shoulder baskets hold his harvests. Even Shen’s small fields defy the rigid geometries imposed by the mechanical world: They’re irregular, amoeboid, lobed.from the town,” allows Shen’s wife, Wang Liusui, referring to an often mass-produced booze in China that numbs the lips on contact.
“Ten years ago, I had 10 mules, and now I have only two,” said Luo Shi Ming, an aging mule driver who helped lug my gear over the yo-yoing trails of Cang Mountain, in western Yunnan. Meanwhile, the monotonous surfaces of our machine-built world—concrete superhighways, cellophane packaging—advance steadily into rugged western Yunnan.
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