“Azzaro is a beautiful small house, and I enjoy this moment where I can get to know people, and see what they do.”
. His namesake line was just founded three years ago. When the Belgian designer decided to start his own brand, he was lucky that the ground floor of the building he lived in had an open space for rent—which he turned into his then-studio. “Soon we were a small team and it was too small for us,” he explained. He moved to his current 10th arrondissement location, which he also uses as the ground floor to host his shows in, about one year ago. “I was looking for a place that is really my office.
But despite his cozy, intimate-feeling studio office, Theyskens is working out of an entirely different location for his work with Azzaro and will not be merging the two at all. Rather than bring over part of his team to the fabled French couture house, Theyskens is opting to fly solo for the time being, and work with the existing team at the Rue Faubourg St. Honoré couture workshops.
“I am always different. I think it's very important to adapt,” says Theyskens on the differences between his creative practices in the couture atelier at Azzaro versus his own label. “It's like in love. I think in love you are very different depending on your partner. In work, too, depending on the environment and the people you work with, your mind-set becomes different and you make different decisions.
Back at Theyskens’s own studio, just days before the collection will hit the runway, there’s still not a single air of nerves in sight. Atypical from the usual state of a designer house before the runway show, Theyskens is calm and collected, and his apprentices and design team are all quietly working. Perhaps that sense of ease is due to the fact that Theyskens took such a hands-on approach this season, designing every pattern himself from scratch and delving deep into the craft.
Interestingly, though Theyskens is in many ways starting a new career chapter for himself with Azzaro, he considers his fall 2020 collection for his own brand to be a return to his roots. “Going back to mixes of materials; the very first ways I was mixing materials in a bizarre way,” he notes. The play on proportions and severe, sharp structures and patterns is about as intrinsic to the Olivier Theyskens brand DNA as one can get.
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