With summer and the Atlantic hurricane season in full swing, surfers navigate thrills, threats and even deadly weather conditions.
The geography in certain places — along the Gulf Coast in the United States, for example — lends itself to particularly severe storm surges, and that sensitivity means less force is required on the part of the hurricane to trigger a higher surge.
"The problem with storm surges is that these waves tend to be chaotic and do not have a regular breaking pattern. They break here and there, they're bigger and smaller," he said, adding that a storm surge"can change the quality of the wave dramatically." Surges can also happen at seemingly random intervals before, during or after a storm, and can cause water levels to rise substantially in minutes, so heeding evacuation notices and other safety protocols ahead of time is important and could be life-saving.While storm surges cannot be prevented, weather experts have systems in place to track them, allowing communities in the expected path of a hurricane to prepare.
"I wouldn't advise being out in the areas where a storm is approaching," he said."When a storm surge comes in it can be very fast and destructive. It's not something that any one person should kind of mess with. I mean, there's a reason why we put out warnings to alert the public about the dangers of storm surge, because it is life threatening, ultimately."
"Surfers have a bunch of different resources we use to check the surf, but you can always look at the wave size and have a good idea whether it's safe," he said.
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