Yohji Yamamoto and Marine Serre go their own way.
The fashion world has a short attention span, but when the spotlight is on a designer , no light shines hotter or brighter. And perhaps because that sphere is a place of great obsession, there is only room for a few at a time. That means the same handful of brands are generally driving all conversation. Shows are rarely divisive anymore, and the designers everyone seems to be talking about at any given time are almost always working with the same key palette of ideas.
Backstage, Yamamoto was smiling and playful. I asked why he wanted to incorporate so much movement, especially bouncing, in his clothing. “We need it now,” he said. “The world is feeling very down because of COVID-19 and the war. Many sad things. So I just wanted to make people happy,” he added, jotting out the last three words like an incantation.
Speaking of atomized designers: Marine Serre has quite the community around her. I haven’t been to a Serre show since 2019, and a massive group of young people created a crush at the door to get inside her show, most of them wearing some of her signature upcycled gear, moon print-embossed leather jackets and jeans, her floral print popcorn tops, and her old T-shirts masterfully reconstructed into va-va-voom dresses.
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