John Galliano's spring 2022 film for Maison Margiela paints a portrait of “utopian youth” devoted to environmental and communal awareness. Here he reveals why film is still the most powerful way for him to tell his story
salon chairs for a screening of his ready-to-wear film. His newest vision is a slickly beguiling follow-up to July’s haute couture spectacular,La Vie en RoseWith a rock‘n’roll score on full blast, it’s a different experience to the haunting celluloid poetry of his last film. Seditious and seductive, it snaps you out of the time-traveling universe he created this summer, and transports you into a decidedly disruptive disposition.
Galliano explains it best: “The artisanal film was shot in a studio with a 360 LED screen. Here, in the co-ed film, we thought it fun to actually reveal the backstage element of it, so there’s an authenticity. We suspend belief, if you like.” “Artisanal” is Maison Margiela’s term for haute couture, while “co-ed” signifies the ready-to-wear collection.
If haute couture represents the hand—the elemental purity of dressmaking, with all its might and magic—ready-to-wear is the industrialization. In essence, this collection draws on the themes of July’s haute couture and translates them into a wardrobe you can buy into.
What happens in the film is—true to Galliano’s storytelling tradition—left up to the spectator to decrypt. Throughout the pandemic, his choice of epic filmic productions have reflected on the challenges of our moment in time, from aspects of communication to the hankering for information and transparency we all felt during the crisis, and the interdependence so crucial to our collective experience.
Galliano agrees that it is a generation that sees the pandemic as a lesson—a warning signal from Planet Earth – and that hasn’t forgotten what happened, tempting as a return to “normality” may be. With their carton crowns and armor-like silver rings and hand-plates worn over Fair Isle knitted gloves like DIY knights, there’s an against-all-odds heroism to the community Galliano portrays in the film.It conveys a sense of hope above all. “It’s something that we’ve always believed in here.
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