From José Andrés’s new “Zaytinya” cookbook, carrot fritters with pistachio sauce demonstrate the vibrancy of Eastern Mediterranean cooking.
,” he told me in a Zoom conversation. “I could be arguing against myself here, but the most influential cooking is what’s happening in the homes. That is really the cooking of a nation.”I’m Joe, the food and dining editor of The Post and the author of this weekly column on plant-based cooking. I’ve been a vegetarian since 2012, and now my diet is mostly vegan, with a little flexibility built in . I’ve written several cookbooks, including “Cool Beans,” and my next will publish in fall 2024.
Sometimes I develop my own recipes for this column, and sometimes I spotlight the great work of other cooks and authors. And I love hearing from readers: Feel free to email me at, the British expat who became a renowned expert in the complexities of Mexican cuisine, bringing her to the restaurant for regular consulting gigs.
Andrés first tasted them in Istanbul, but added the pistachio sauce once they went onto the Zaytinya menu. It was a chef’s modern touch, but perfectly in keeping with traditional flavors — and the region’s love for such dips as hummus, tzatziki, muhammara, fata spread and more.In our Zoom interview, he talked about how intertwined the foods of the Eastern Mediterranean nations are.
Thanks to the “Zaytinya” cookbook, you can bring all these dishes to your home kitchen, and you’ll see, if you don’t know already, just how accessible and delicious they are to make from scratch. In the case of the fritters, the ingredient list might look long, but much of it consists of the spices and herbs that flavor the carrot mixture, which you pulse in a food processor and scoop like cookie dough before frying.
While the pistachio sauce was originally a restaurant embellishment, once you taste it you’ll wonder why Turkish carrot fritters aren’t always served this way. Maybe chefs have some influence after all.
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