Louis Vuitton’s SS23 menswear show was a final send-off to Virgil Abloh

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Louis Vuitton’s SS23 menswear show was a final send-off to Virgil Abloh
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The playful collection at the Louvre was soundtracked to Kendrick Lamar performing songs from his new album while sat in the front row.

. There were suits dotted with symbolic hallmarks of childhood — 3-D paper planes, arts and crafts supplies, candy-like fridge magnets, and Lego-like blocks of colour — all of which were transformed into the finest leathers, shearlings and jacquards in the LV ateliers.

Often, Virgil is talked about as a cultural icon who broke down barriers in the notoriously gatekept realms of fashion; an ideological collaborator who shepherded brilliant people together into a community of like-minded souls — but not enough is said of his design sensibility. This show, perhaps because it was designed in reflective hindsight, crystallised his impact on the look of twenty-first century menswear.

Watching the show and its brightly-dressed guests, it became clear that, ultimately, Virgil’s legacy is of masculine self-expression, of a tenderthat is unafraid to be playful and bombastic and bold; unapologetically bright for blazing a trail in any room, just as Virgil did throughout his career. All men were once boys, “not yet spoiled by societal programming,” as the show notes put it. And many of those boys have big dreams — all the more thanks to Virgil and his infinite legacy.

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