.Margiela presented virtually and the collection riffed on coastal and maritime wardrobes.
While other designers spoke of “box fresh” garments this season, Galliano favors weather-beaten ones that bear “the trace of time” through enzyme and stonewash treatments, according to the house. Meanwhile, thick herringbone is “bird pecked” to smithereens for an unusual dress revealing a red lining, and a bra-like top with gleaming rows of silver studs.
Galliano is a master at creating new textures and building up narrative in garments, layering colorful tulle over chic wool cocoon coats and then embroidering the kind of feathers you find on fishing lures. One of the most arresting looks in the film is a long, padded, off-white coat sheltering a lining of silver embroideries, accessorized with yellow Tabi-toe mary janes. Oh to see a model clutching it for warmth on a windswept Paris runway!
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