“What is enticingly new about this collection is how [John] Galliano and his team seemed to blend one style with the ghost of another,” CathyHoryn reviews Maison Margiela at PFW
Photo: Getty Images Listening to John Galliano’s mannered voice, spiked with impish giggles, might inspire anyone to release her inner diva. He does a podcast each season for Maison Margiela — in lieu of interviews — and the latest is a dilly, partly for the breakdown of this marvelous collection.
This morning’s show, at the Grand Palais, picked up the theme of his January haute couture collection, where he reworked existing materials and vintage ladylike classics. The word for the process — it’s a process! — is upcyling. But anyone who’s followed Galliano’s career knows that he came of age in London fashion of the mid-’80s, when it was simply cool to dissect and reuse the past. And his later collections, for his own label and Dior, played heavily on deconstruction.
A lot of designers in the past two or three seasons have revived familiar styles. Think of Marc Jacobs’s sensational show in New York, with its trim black raincoats, minimalist pastel suits, and crew necks with slacks; think of Hedi Slimane’s Celine. Equally beautiful for their sexy restraint were the dresses, in tulle and crêpe de Chine, the surface cut to mimic paillettes.
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