Setting a record is not always an achievement.
Why? Jacobs still draws a crowd. Everyone in fashion wants to know what he’s going to do, even for these latter-day collections, which have become inescapably boutique . He’s earned our focus. Why discard it?
The answer, one has to infer — Jacobs declined to speak after the show — is that this simply is the speed we run on now. I ran into Michael Ariano, Jacobs’s head of press and de facto body man, who said only that the word “chaotic” had been thrown around a lot. “This is how fast everyone scrolls throughanyway,” he said. Complaints about the pace of fashion and the industry’s relentless expectations have been commonplace for years, and the rest of the world seems to have caught up.
The upside of this approach is a blow landed. The downside is that you leave talking about everything but the clothes. This is a shame, because Jacobs was mining an era he knows and loves, the 1980s, to good effect. The baggy volumes of his recent collections had been cut back; in their place were truncated little bustier tops and dresses and boxy jackets and suits , most shown with black tights, flats, and frilly ankle socks.
, though there was a black-and-white striped suit Beetlejuice would’ve loved. If they were hard to see on the runway — nothing encourages a run like a flat —But did the show land? The clothes, despite their zippy, debulked energy, seemed far from the point. Besides, setting a record is not always an achievement. Give credit to Jacobs for this, at least: More than many of his peers, he’s going forward, for good or for ill. We filtered out of the Library.
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