Marine Serre RTW Spring 2023

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Marine Serre tapped athletes and celebrities including Jorja Smith and Lourdes Leon to walk in her sports-themed show.

They were joined by an eclectic cast of celebrities, including singer Jorja Smith, wearing a body-con dress made of strips of upcycled denim studded with hardware, and Madonna’s daughter, Lourdes Leon, who accessorized her bodysuit with oodles of gold chains.

The collection read like a greatest hits compilation, with references to previous designs made of upcycled materials, such as secondhand jeans and T-shirts. It also featured several new prints, including the diamond motif on a robe and pants worn by boxer-turned-model Alexis Chaparro. As good as they look on ripped bodies, Serre’s designs work for everyone. Body-con dresses, including a hot pink version made from regenerated towels, came in a variety of sizes, but the crescent-moon bodysuits proved the most versatile of all. Dutch Iranian music artist Sevdaliza layered hers with a swimsuit in a new jewel print, held in place by draped scarves.

Serre said the shift to the men’s calendar was timed to the anniversary, but noted that menswear sales grew 36 percent last year, helping to drive total brand revenues to more than 15 million euros. The mainstream presentation and emphasis on sportswear signaled she’s ready to scale up the label even further — and no doubt, Team Marine will be there to cheer her on.

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