Noma: from grasshopper brews to age-old ‘garum’
The famed Copenhagen eatery, renowned as much for its culinary innovation as for its lively insect ingredients, has taken food condiments to new heights with its first microbe-made ‘garum’. Ancient Romans were said to go wild for this salty fish sauce and doused every possible meal with it, a bit like ketchup aficionados. Romans made garum by fermenting fish viscera in large, open vessels under the Mediterranean sun for up to three months.
To evolve beyond grasshopper garum, Redzepi gave the lab the go-ahead to try everything. They tested grasshopper with beef, pork, chicken, lobster, king crab, blue mussels and snails. Eventually their research led them to Japanese koji, a mold ofused to make the aromatic and savory miso paste. The filamentous fungus produces similar enzymes to fish guts, and crushed with mushrooms, salt and rice koji, it ferments to produce the plant-based liquid.
“We want to spread the wings of the philosophy beyond the guests we serve at the restaurant,” says Kevin Jeung, who is chef de partie at the fermentation lab. But this Danish restaurant has even greater ambitions: to cut food waste. “Fermentation might eliminate food waste entirely, without too much effort. You could [potentially] transform leftover food into a nutritious paste or liquid,” says Jeung. He points out that wood-feeding, for instance, have sophisticated digestive enzymes that can breakdown lignin in wood and bark into sugars. These enzymes with high lignocellulytic activity could open up an entirely new food stream.
It’s at-home food production, DIY fermentation. And by sharing its knowledge, expertise and tools — even, one day, AI-driven fermentation solutions for different types of plants — Noma is intent on helping us make delicacies out of last night’s leftovers.
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