'There were no fresh tortillas or taco carts in our new town, so my mom did what she could with the Global Flavors section of the grocery store.'
On the shelf next to cans of black beans and boxes of tacos , in yellow packets so slim you’d miss them if they weren’t so school-bus-bright, Old El Paso Taco Seasoning Mix had a permanent residence in my mother’s kitchen.
My parents moved from New York to San Francisco as newlyweds and lived in and around the Mission, where my mom first fell in love with Mexican food. She’d buy fresh, cotton-soft corn tortillas and eat them with peanut butter. She loved the chorizo tacos dripping with fluorescent grease from the taqueria on her corner, the burritos as warm and hefty as the newborn strapped to her chest.
My stepdad had never been a parent; when he met my mom, he was a 40-something bachelor who ate pita sandwiches heated in a toaster oven for dinner most nights. The first time he made me breakfast, I had to talk him through the instructions on the instant oatmeal packet. Meanwhile I was used to my mom getting everything right: how hot to make the bathwater, whichbook to check out of the library, where my favorite ballet leotard was . I had very little patience for training someone new.
The “recipe” on the back of the Old El Paso mix has you start by browning ground beef in a skillet. Let’s forgive my mom for swapping 99-percent fat-free ground turkey; it was the ’90s and fat was public enemy number one. After browning, you’d drain the fat and dump in two-thirds cup water and the seasoning, “stirring often, until thickened.” This was my favorite part to watch: the watery mess becoming a glossy, spoonable filling thanks to the power duo of maltodextrin and corn starch.
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