One of New York’s most surprising desserts is a baseball-sized cream puff.
, I am fully willing to admit. The wine bar opened in March mere blocks from my apartment in Brooklyn’s Clinton Hill neighborhood, with squiggly faces etched on the wine glasses and a lone taper candle burning in a white brick alcove by the door. The cheery red façade drew me in for the first time when I was on my way to other plans, and the menu—boasting a big crispy maitake mushroom and an elegant sardine toast—convinced me to upgrade from a few snacks to a full meal.
My sweet tooth requires that I order whatever meal-ender a restaurant has on offer, even when it’s clear the course is an afterthought. The opposite was true at Place des Fêtes : What landed in front of me was a baseball-sizewith a crunchy craquelin top, filled to order with caramelized banana crème diplomat and sour orange caramel.
The last few years have required a lot of flexibility from restaurants, and Russell and his team spent that time sharpening their pastry offerings. “The pandemic made us stronger operators; we got to do a lot more,” he says. In 2020 and 2021, when the team was running just Oxalis, they nimbly adapted periodically to keep customers coming back .
Sour orange caramel and a crispy craquelin round out the pastry. The caramel is made with the surprisingly sour juice of Seville oranges, sourced from citrus farmers in California. In every PDF cream puff I’ve eaten , it has dripped delightfully onto the plate when I cut into the pastry. Craquelin is a “cookie” topper you may recognize from the likes of melon pan and
. In the oven, as the pastry puffs and expands, the craquelin round relaxes into a drape over the domed exterior, then bakes into a crisp, crackly finish.When telling me about the cream puff on the phone recently, Russell said the wordmore times than I could count. It’s true that it’s hard not to feel taken care of with big bites of choux pastry in your mouth, but I don’t think I would have made the jump from bananas—which strike me as utilitarian—to comfort food on my own.
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