Raf Simons’s latest collection was “quite remarkable,” writes CathyHoryn
Left to right: Chloé, Raf Simons, Rick Owens Photo-Illustration: The Cut; Photos: Courtesy of the designers, OWENSCORP At his spring men’s and women’s show on Friday, Raf Simons had the designers Demna Gvasalia , Pieter Mulier , and Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez in the front row. And barely recognizable behind his mask was Patrizio Bertelli, the chief executive of Prada, where Simons is co–creative director with Miuccia Prada.
Simons’s jackets were cut loose on the body, without being sloppy or oversized, and the knee-length skirts appeared to be pleated, though not exactly box-pleated. They were shown with thin black socks and thick-soled black brogues. In fact, I learned later from Simons, the shoes were custom-made, and it showed. All in all, the suit looked relaxed, on any model, and I found myself wondering what Simons had done to make such a loveless garment seem so desirable that I wanted one myself.
Simons gave the dress shirts the same consideration. In order to prevent them from looking like office gear, he blew up the stripes and widened the cuffs. They were shown alone, with a skirt, or layered under a loose knit top. Around noon on Thursday, against the loveliest Parisian sky, two models in flowing garments stood on the roof of the Palais de Tokyo and flung papery bits down to the runway and the audience. The bits were actually jasmine leaves that Owens collected on his Lido terrace. On many minds here has been the question: How should designers mark the return of live shows? With the same old hoopla? To a great extent, that is what they’ve done. But in all things, Owens remains steadfastly personal.
Rick Owens. Photo: OWENSCORP So he did: with long black dresses cut close to the body and carved out around the breasts, sexy bodysuits with hollowed-out fronts and sides, and wonderful cocoon-shaped, zip-closed bomber jackets in leather and pleated nylon. The mood hovered between sex and regal or holy glamour.
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