RESTAURANT REVIEW: San Antonio’s Steve McHugh steps into the Austin dining spotlight with Luminaire.
In theatre, a luminaire is a floodlight fixture that delivers light evenly and efficiently, illuminating precisely what needs illuminating. In Austin, Luminaire is also the newest concept from lauded chef Steve McHugh, fittingly taking its mark next to the Stateside and Paramount theatres on the ground floor of the Hyatt Centric Congress Avenue hotel.
McHugh is well known for his charcuterie thanks to his work at Cured, his restaurant in San Antonio's historic Pearl Brewery shopping and dining district. To that end, the charcuterie here, for the time being, is all done at Cured, then brought to Luminaire and ensconced in a glass cabinet called the Ham Bar where the meats continue aging.
To accompany my meal, I went with the pipeño from Lomas de Llahuen, an organic red from Chile's Itata Valley. It's light, slightly smoky, fruity, and dry, a workhorse wine. It went well with the acidity and smokiness of the tartare, stood up to the richness of the chops, and was a perfect complement to the gnocchi.Not much of a dessert guy, I wanted to try the Slippery Slope, a frozen coffee-and-rum cocktail.
I followed it with a Wide Open, an open-faced sandwich with the sobrasada , Majon cheese, and that wonderfully pillowlike crunchy grilled sourdough. The nutty, semisweet, and creamy Majon married an amazing bite layered above the boldly spiced sobrasada, all topped with bright, lightly dressed arugula. The sandwich is served with fries that are good, but the aioli, which I assume is spiked with paprika, is addicting.
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