Bill Addison reviews eccentric Bar Restaurant in Silver Lake
The best thing to be said about the banal, post-structuralist name of Silver Lake’s new Bar Restaurant is that it is accurate.
Pierluc Dallaire, Bar Restaurant’s general manager and beverage director, serves customers in the bar area.Booths in the long, narrow dining room are separated by partitions painted a minty shade of green. Stubby, Art Deco sconces jut from beige walls; the light after sundown is the color of drawn butter. Dried palm fronds spring out of planters. Towering, textural floral arrangements by the Boy Who Cried Flowers brighten the dimness.
Rankin’s wink at mussels and frites is the wittiest thing on the menu. Tan mollusks bathe in Dijon cream; a submerged slice of milk bread toast manages to retain its crunch. To finish, the kitchen blankets the whole situation with curly fries. It’s weird and triumphant. For $32, it’s also an expensive high-low masterpiece; for the price, the mussels are deshelled and cooked just to plumpness.
Not every dish goes overboard on painterly qualities: A nicely seared piece of rainbow trout over rice curried with vadouvan and brightened with salsa verde is straightforward with visuals and flavors, and it scores.A few dishes wobble. Something unappealingly sour lurks in the Brussels sprouts-labneh starter.
Norge Siste Nytt, Norge Overskrifter
Similar News:Du kan også lese nyheter som ligner på denne som vi har samlet inn fra andre nyhetskilder.
Michelle Keegan's plunging silver gown is the talk of the 2020 Brit AwardsActress Michelle Keegan took to the red carpet at the Brit Awards on Tuesday night wearing a stunning silver gown from couture bridal designer Galia Lahav and Sophia Webster heels.
Les mer »
Ruth Bader Ginsburg Rocked Sparkly Silver Heels for Award Ceremony — and People Are Loving It'You sparkle and I am not just talking about your shoes!' a fan wrote
Les mer »
'Silver Linings Playbook' Is Coming to Netflix Next MonthHere's everything coming to Netflix in March, including Silver Linings Playbook and Space Jam.
Les mer »
Housing Supply Sees Huge Drop, But Latest Construction Numbers Offer Silver LiningOverall housing supply dropped 11% last month, but according to the Census Bureau’s latest construction numbers, builders are finally stepping in to help
Les mer »
Man Who Went Missing at Florida's Forbidden Kingdom Fest Found Dead In LakeDetectives believe they’ve found the body of a man who went missing during a Florida music festival over the weekend, authorities said.
Les mer »
Police Share Video of Dramatic Rescue from Icy Lake Michigan After Passerby Jumps Into ActionThe man received help when a Good Samaritan crossed the highway to call 911
Les mer »