Review: Burger King’s Whopper Melts are sweet, spongy, sorry substitutes for the patty melt
What does any of this, you might ask, have to do with Burger King’s latest creations, the Whopper Melt and its two variations, the Spicy Whopper Melt and the Bacon Whopper Melt? Good question.Fast food chains — companies that pride themselves on consistency from coast to coast — have been working overtime in recent years to remain relevant in a consumer marketplace that changes fast. Plant-based meats. Digital ordering. Better and more healthful ingredients. Limited-time offerings.
Sometimes these refreshes have been little more than retreads of the past, like the Whopper Melt, a fast-food variation on the classic diner patty melt. Any guess as to who claims to have invented the patty melt? That’s right: The family behind the original Tiny Naylor’s, right there at the corner of Sunset Boulevard and La Brea Avenue in Hollywood. The sandwich has outlasted the small chain, which looks to have died years ago, with little fanfare based on the lack of reporters and cultural critics who cared enough to pen homages to the former institution.
The Whopper Melt has two significant problems: its bread and its sweetness. A traditional patty melt has several interlocking ingredients, each one essential for optimal deliciousness: It has melty cheese ; it has golden, griddled slices of bread ; it has a beef patty ; and it has caramelized onions sitting atop the patty .
All three of my Whopper Melts — spicy, bacon and original — had acceptably browned onions lounging between the slices of bread, supplying that savory umami sweetness so important to a patty melt. They also had a pair of well-done Jr. patties with that flame-grilled flavor that I truly love.
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