Bill Addison reviews Luv2eat Thai Bistro in Hollywood.
When ordering jade noodles at Hollywood’s Luv2eat Thai Bistro, you have a choice: broth poured over top or served on the side? Dry-style is the move.to relish how the meats gloss the pale green strands and create soft-crisp-chewy tensions with their combined textures. Slices of roast duck and pork and striated hunks of fried pork belly fan across the bowl with stretchy leaves of gai lan and mounds of chopped peanuts and crushed chiles.
During its busiest hours a small crowd will be milling about on its strip-mall sidewalk. Waits are never too long. The clientele filling its two sparsely decorated dining rooms is cheerful and diverse, a sea of heads bowed and slurping noodles. Servers move fast; they lean to the friendly side of brusque, though they’ll offer unerring advice on spice levels or choices that best reflect the kitchen’s strengths.
This is sound guidance in general for Kaewtathip and Burapapituk’s curries. Their approach to spice won’t cause shivers or weeping; they use it for heightening effect, as a magnifier of contrast like salt and acidity. Dry-style kua gling curry with ground meat and sataws is one of Burapapituk’s favorites. Stink beans are optional, but their fava-like crunch and earthiness provides vegetal contrast to ground pork or chicken; either option trumpets the garlicky, chile-permeated paste in which the whole thing is stir-fried.
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